Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city after Jakarta, is a bustling hub of history and culture. As the capital of East Java—one of the most populous provinces on the island of Java—Surabaya has long played a vital role in shaping the nation’s identity. Beyond its historical significance, Surabaya is also a beloved city where I spent a significant part of my life, having attended university and begun my career in this dynamic city before moving to Jakarta.
Earlier this year, I took a short trip back to Surabaya and managed to explore some parts of the city. Memories came flooding back as I wandered along familiar roads and recognized old buildings, while also admiring the many changes the city has undergone after being away for a decade. From visiting the boarding house in the Ngagel area where I had rented for most of my years in the city—and cherishing a tearful reunion with my old landlady—to walking around the expanded Tunjungan Plaza Mall, the short visit turned out to be exactly what I had been needing.
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| From colonial society to cultural sanctuary, Balai Pemuda has shaped Surabaya’s historical landscape |
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| Originally built in 1907 as the Simpangsche Societeit, Balai Pemuda began as a colonial social club |
Among the places I revisited was Balai Pemuda, a landmark I had frequented several times during my years living in Surabaya. The building’s layout, positioned at the corner of Jalan Gubernur Suryo and Jalan Pemuda, placed it at the heart of the city’s colonial district. This heritage building has undergone notable upgrades, yet it still retains the charm and spirit that made it a gathering place for art, youth, and community. In fact, my very first office was located just a few meters away from Balai Pemuda, making the building not only a cultural icon but also a familiar part of my daily life during my early career years in Surabaya.
Historically, the building dates back to 1907, when it was originally known as the Simpangsche Societeit, a colonial-era club for European elites (especially Dutch society) in this area known as Simpang. The area existed since the days of the Dutch East Indies and it hosted a number of important colonial government building such as the City Hall (built in 1927) and the Grahadi Building (built in 1795) which is currently used as the Governor's office of East Java Province. Together, these landmarks formed the civic and social heart of colonial Surabaya, with the Simpangsche Societeit standing out as a symbol of exclusive European cultural life. Its transformation into Balai Pemuda after independence marked a profound shift in meaning—from a colonial club to a hall of youth and public expression.
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| Revitalized in 2020, Alun-Alun Surabaya now blends heritage with spaces for art, learning, and tourism |
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| As-Sakinah Mosque and the Surabaya City Council building are also located in the complex |
In 1945, following Indonesia’s Proclamation of Independence, the building was seized by Surabaya’s youth, organized under Pemuda Republik Indonesia (PRI), and repurposed as a headquarters for the people’s struggle. It became a rallying point during the resistance against Dutch attempts to reoccupy Indonesia, most notably during the Battle of Surabaya in November 1945. This pivotal role in the youth-led struggle explains the name Balai Pemuda—literally “Youth Hall”—which has endured ever since. What was once a symbol of colonial exclusivity gradually evolved into an entertainment space for the people of Surabaya.
Designed by Westmaes, a Dutch architect, the building was one of the first in Surabaya to employ steel frame construction. Its iconic crown dome stands as a testament to strong European Gothic influences, blended with the New Indies approach that adapted the design to the tropical climate of Surabaya. The original structure, completed in 1907 as the Simpangsche Societeit, featured tall arches, ornamented facades, and spacious interiors that reflected the grandeur of European social clubs of the era. In 1929, a new wing was added in a more modern architectural style, creating a striking contrast between the Gothic colonial design of the old building and the clean lines of the newer addition.
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| Open every day from 08:00 AM to 07:00 PM, the Surabaya City Library provides free access to over 27,000 books |
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| The fountain at the Pemuda–Gubernur Suryo intersection, added in 2020, lights up the area |
In recent years, Balai Pemuda has taken on a renewed role within Surabaya’s urban landscape. On 17 August 2020, coinciding with Indonesia’s 75th Independence Day, then Mayor Tri Rismaharini officially relaunched the Alun-Alun Surabaya complex, with Balai Pemuda at its heart. This revitalization project transformed the area into a vibrant civic space designed to serve both residents and visitors. The complex now features an underground multifunction hall, which hosts performances, exhibitions, and community events. Above ground, the plaza and open spaces are regularly used for art shows, traditional performances, and youth activities, continuing Balai Pemuda’s legacy as a hub for creativity. The integration of heritage architecture with modern facilities reflects Surabaya’s commitment to preserving its past while embracing the future. Within the Balai Pemuda complex stands the Surabaya City Arts Council (Dewan Kesenian Kota Surabaya), a vibrant space where local artists and cultural communities gather to showcase their work, exchange ideas, and celebrate the city’s creative spirit. Just behind the main building, above the underground multifunction hall, rises the Surabaya City Library, offering a modern environment for learning and public access to knowledge. Nearby, the Surabaya Language Learning House (Rumah Bahasa Surabaya) provides free language education to residents and workers, fostering global engagement through inclusive learning. The complex also hosts the Surabaya Tourism Center, positioning Balai Pemuda not only as a cultural landmark, but as a dynamic hub for education, creativity, and civic connection.
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| The 2020 revitalization introduced an underground multifunction hall to Alun-Alun Surabaya |
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| The underground hall provides modern space for art shows, cultural gatherings, and public activities |
My brief return to Surabaya reminded me that a city is never static; it grows, adapts, and yet still holds the memories of those who once called it home. Balai Pemuda, with its layered history from colonial times to its present role within the revitalized Alun-Alun Surabaya, embodies that spirit of continuity and change. Standing within the historic complex, I felt how heritage and civic life converge in this heart of the city. For me, revisiting Balai Pemuda was not only about retracing steps from past in Surabaya, but also about witnessing how the city continues to honor its past while embracing the future — a reminder that places, like people, carry stories worth returning to.
Balai Pemuda Surabaya
Alun-Alun Surabaya
Location Jalan Gubernur Suryo No 15, Genteng, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Opening Hours
Daily, 07:00 AM – 09:00 PM
*Please note: individual facilities may have different operating hours
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