Many Indonesians consider Surabaya’s culinary scene among the finest in the country. As a vibrant city, Surabaya offers a wide spectrum of dining experiences—from elegant fine dining establishments and stylish cafés to contemporary casual restaurants and ethnic eateries that reflect the city’s diverse communities. Many also believe that its true culinary soul is found in the older, traditional depot eateries, the humble warteg stalls serving everyday comfort food, and the countless street vendors whose dishes bring Surabaya’s flavors to life. Together, these layers of experience make the city’s food culture not only varied but deeply rooted in memory and tradition.
It is no surprise then that TasteAtlas—an international food media known for cataloging traditional dishes, local ingredients, and authentic restaurants worldwide—ranked Surabaya 34th in its 2024–2025 list of the 100 Best Food Cities. Walking through its streets, tasting dishes while exploring the city, I realized how each flavor carries both memory and tradition—echoing why the city deserves its place on the global stage. The following are several restaurants and dishes I enjoyed while on my short culinary journey in Surabaya.
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| Nasi mawut is a local playful twist, mixing fried rice and fried noodles with kecap manis and spices |
Nasi Goreng Pak Kumis
Street-Style Fried Rice
This was the first food I had during my short trip to Surabaya since it was located a few steps away from the Kampi Hotel Tunjungan where I was staying. My culinary stop at Nasi Goreng Pak Kumis near Joko Dolog was a true Surabaya classic. Famous for its rich, brownish krengsengan-style fried rice, the dish was served simply yet full of flavor, often with a fried egg on top. Eaten at a modest roadside stall, it captured the essence of Surabaya’s street food—humble in setting, but unforgettable in taste. Nasi goreng or literally, fried rice, is often regarded as the Indonesia's national dish, and it is offered in countless local variations across the archipelago.
But this time, I opted for nasi mawut, a local twist where fried rice and noodles are cooked together in one wok. The name “mawut” means “messy,” reflecting the playful mix of textures and flavors. What makes it distinctive here is the use of krengsengan-style seasoning—a Javanese preparation rooted in kecap manis (sweet soy sauce), garlic, shallots, and aromatic spices, often enriched with petis udang (shrimp paste). This gives the dish its caramelized sweetness, savory depth, and fragrant aroma. Served simply with a glass of hot tea at a humble warung, it was hearty, flavorful, and a perfect example of how Surabaya’s street food blends tradition with everyday comfort.
Location Jl Taman Apsari No 25, Genteng, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 05.00 PM to 12.00 AM
Price
Nasi mawut IDR 15,000
Hot tea IDR 5,000
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| Nasi empal udang with sambal bawang is a delicious signature dish from Depot Bu Rudy |
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| Nasi pecel sayur brings together fresh vegetables, rempeyek, warm rice, and rich peanut sambal in harmony |
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| From humble beginnings and hardship, Bu Rudy has grown into a culinary icon with branches across the city |
Depot Bu RudyEast Javanese Food
Another eatery I never miss when visiting Surabaya is the legendary Depot Bu Rudy—literally “Mrs. Rudy’s Eatery.” With several branches now across the city, it’s more than just a restaurant; it’s a symbol of Surabaya’s bold, homegrown culinary spirit. Bu Rudy’s food has been a source of comfort since my university days in Surabaya. While I used to frequent the original Dharmahusada branch, this time I visited the newer Kupang Indah location. Her journey from hardship to culinary fame resonates deeply with locals, and her signature dish Nasi Udang Sambal Bawang remains iconic: warm rice topped with crispy fried shrimp and her fiery shallot sambal. The sambal is so beloved it’s sold nationwide in jars with the signature photo of Bu Rudy and yellow lid. It is bold, spicy and evoke many wonderful memories of the city. This time, I added empal (seasoned fried beef) to the mix, and it was sublime. The sambal’s punchy heat was beautifully balanced by the meat’s sweetness, while the shrimp added crunch and umami. Every bite brought back vivid memories of the city I once called home.
The restaurant offers a variety of classic local dishes, especially those from East Java. One traditional food from my home province is Nasi Pecel Sayur, a colorful mix of blanched vegetables—spinach, bean sprouts, long beans—topped with a generous ladle of spicy peanut sauce. The East Javanese version is bold and fiery, just like the spirit of its people. I paired it with warm rice and crispy rempeyek (peanut crackers), and the first bite brought back memories of morning markets and roadside warungs. It’s simple, nourishing, and deeply rooted in our culinary heritage. Other items many people come here for are the snacks, and Bu Rudy’s specialty is Pisang Goreng Madu—fried caramelized bananas with a golden, sticky sweetness of honey. For visitors from Jakarta, this treat may feel familiar, as it is also famously sold there by another legendary “Ibu.” What makes the story even more delightful is that these two culinary icons are not rivals, but best friends. Their friendship is as sweet as the bananas they fry, a reminder that food is not only about flavor but also about the bonds it creates.
And while you’re here, don’t forget to grab some oleh-oleh as a souvenir from Surabaya, as the restaurant also offers a wide variety of traditional snacks. From jars of Bu Rudy’s famous sambal bawang to crackers, spiced nuts and various traditional seasoning paste, these treats are perfect to take home and share with family.
Location Jl Raya Kupang Indah No 19, Dukuhpakis, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 07.00 AM to 09.00 PM
Price
Nasi udang empal IDR 38,500
Nasi pecel empal IDR 38,500
Hot tea IDR 10,000
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| At Bebek Goreng Palupi, golden fried duck meets fiery sambal, an unforgettable Surabaya indulgence |
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| Bebek goreng wrapped as nasi bungkus, an iconic Indonesian way to enjoy a meal on the go |
Bebek Goreng Palupi
Fried Duck Specialist
Another gem of Surabaya's traditional dishes is bebek goreng (fried duck). Known for its crispy skin and tender meat, often served with sambal and rice, this dish becomes another culinary icon of the city. Surabaya’s fried duck owes much to its neighbor Madura, where fried duck is a culinary icon. The influence is clear in the spice blends and the love for sambal, yet Surabaya has carved out its own identity. While Madura’s version is rich with bumbu hitam and paired with tangy mango sambal, Surabaya’s duck is prized for its crispy skin and bold shallot sambal.
While Surabaya is home to countless places selling bebek goreng, one of the most beloved is Bebek Goreng Palupi. Located in the heart of Rungkut in southern Surabaya, this humble eatery has been serving its legendary fried duck since 1996. Frequently listed among the city’s must‑try spots, Palupi is celebrated for its flavorful duck, crispy texture, and signature seasoning that makes every plate unforgettable. Paired with sambal and rice, it’s a dish that embodies Surabaya’s bold culinary spirit. Diners can choose between breast (dada) or leg (paha), and for those with a bigger appetite, there’s even a larger (besar) portion available. This time, since it wasn’t even lunchtime yet, I decided to have it wrapped to bring back to the hotel—turning it into a comforting portion of traditional nasi bungkus. The fragrant rice, sambal, and crispy duck neatly folded in paper felt like a taste of Surabaya ready to be savored later.
Location Jl Rungkut Asri Tengah No.10, Rungkut, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 10.00 AM to 10.00 PM
Price
Fried duck (breast) IDR 27,000
White rice IDR 4,000
These three stops—Nasi Goreng Pak Kumis, the legendary Depot Bu Rudy, and the ever‑popular Bebek Goreng Palupi—capture the essence of Surabaya’s bold, comforting flavors. Each plate carries not only taste but also memory, reminding me of student days, working years, and the city’s vibrant food culture. And this is just the beginning. In the next part of my culinary journey in Surabaya, I’ll take you to more local favorites—from humble street stalls to iconic eateries—where Surabaya’s spirit continues to shine through every bite. Stay tuned, because the journey of flavors is far from over.
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