Surabaya’s culinary story stretches from legendary institutions to beloved street stalls. After tasting the fiery sambal and fried shrimp at Depot Bu Rudy, savoring the crispy duck at Bebek Palupi, and enjoying the sweet flavors of nasi mawut at Pak Kumis, my journey continued toward another trio of favorites, from the crispy kampung fried chicken of Ayam Goreng President, to the nostalgic kopitiam vibes of Kedai Ciamso, and the sweet refreshment of Es Teler Tanjung Anom. Each offering a different taste of the city’s culinary soul while together, they reveal how Surabaya balances tradition, nostalgia, and everyday comfort in its food culture.
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| Crispy fried chicken served with sambal, kecap manis, and steaming hot rice is my choice of comfort dish |
Ayam Goreng President
Fried Chicken Specialist
While Surabaya is known to host a number of iconic bebek goreng (fried duck) restaurants, there are also several eateries in the city renowned for their ayam goreng (fried chicken). Among them, Ayam Goreng President on Jalan Tidar stands out as a legendary spot. Established decades ago, it has built a loyal following thanks to its kampung-style fried chicken—crispy on the outside, tender within, and always paired with their signature sambal and kecap manis (sweet soy sauce). This simple, no‑frills restaurant is so famous that when I arrived around 7 PM, I barely managed to secure a portion of their iconic fried chicken before it sold out. Although the official closing time is later in the evening, the doors often shut early—not because of the schedule, but because the ayam goreng has already run out. Despite the crowds, service remained fast and efficient, ensuring that diners could enjoy their meal without long waits.
What makes Ayam Goreng President truly special is its use of free‑range kampung chickens, which are naturally smaller than the industrialized broiler chickens you often find elsewhere. Their leaner build gives the meat a firmer texture, but also a deeper flavor that feels more “real” and rustic. Each piece is carefully marinated in a blend of local spices—garlic, coriander, turmeric, and other traditional seasonings—that seep into the meat, ensuring that the taste isn’t just on the crispy skin but also in the tender flesh beneath. The result is fried chicken that is both aromatic and flavorful, with every bite carrying the essence of Surabaya’s culinary heritage. Paired with their signature black sambal, a drizzle of kecap manis, and steaming hot rice, the dish becomes a complete experience—spicy, sweet, and deeply comforting.
Location Jl Tidar No 22, Sawahan, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 02.30 PM to 09.00 PM
Price
Ayam goreng (breast) IDR 35,000
White rice IDR 12,000
Hot tea IDR 10,000
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| Vintage posters, simple chairs, and the buzz of conversation—Kedai Ciamso brings nostalgic kopitiam vibes to life. |
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| Golden fried gohyong paired with a frothy glass of teh tarik are classic flavors that warm both heart and palate |
Kedai Ciamso
Halal Kopitiam Cafe
On my way to the Kampi Hotel Tunjungan from the airport, I passed a crowded café with a distinctly Chinese, old‑school look. Curious, I searched it up and discovered that it was Kedai Ciamso, a highly rated kopitiam serving halal food. Intrigued by its nostalgic vibe, I decided to return later that night for a few light bites and a warm drink before calling it a night. The first Kedai Ciamso opened at Taman Apsari in 2023, and its runaway success sparked rapid expansion. Today, the brand has seven branches—four spread across Surabaya, and three more reaching Pasuruan, Malang, and even Bandung. The name “Ciamso” is actually a playful twist on the local slang phrase "ciamik soro", which means “really delicious” or “super tasty.” The word "ciamik" itself is believed to have roots in Hokkien, originally from the phrase “Cia ha mi?” (吃什么?) meaning “What are you eating?”—which over time became Indonesian slang for something excellent or tasty. Combined with "soro", a Javanese expression for “very” or “extremely,” the name reflects the café’s promise: food and drinks that are not only nostalgic but also truly delicious.
Stepping into Kedai Ciamso feels like entering a slice of nostalgia. The café is styled after classic Chinese kopitiams, with vintage posters of Hong Kong film stars adorning the walls—Andy Lau, Jackie Chan, Stephen Chow, Bruce Lee—all watching over the bustling crowd. Simple wooden chairs and tables add to the old‑school charm, while the hum of conversation and the glow of laptops create a lively yet cozy environment. Open 24 hours, it has become a favorite spot for students and night owls alike, offering a welcoming space to unwind, sip coffee, or work late into the night. The menu at Kedai Ciamso blends nostalgia with variety. You’ll find kopitiam staples like kaya toast, kopi butter, and teh tarik, alongside hearty plates such as nasi lemak, chicken porridge, and Hainanese chiecken rice. Dim sum selections like gyoza, wontons, and gohyong add a comforting touch, while unique drinks like es Badak soda spark curiosity. Prices remain affordable, making it easy to enjoy light bites or a full meal without breaking the budget. It’s halal certified too, ensuring inclusivity for all who come to savor its flavors.
Location Jl Taman Apsari No 25A, Genteng, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 24 hours
Price
Fried gohyong IDR 28,000
Kaya butter toast (half) IDR 28,000
Hot teh tarik IDR 18,000
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| Sweet, creamy, refreshing Es Teler reflects traditional cool spirit in every cup |
Es Teller Tanjung Anom & Bakso Daging Sapi
Desserts and Meatballs
A culinary journey wouldn’t be complete without dessert. In this section, I highlight Es Teler—a beloved traditional treat that traces its roots to a Central Javanese street vendor who introduced it to Jakarta in the late 1950s. Since then, it has gained widespread popularity across Indonesia and even throughout Southeast Asia. The name es teler literally translates to “tipsy ice,” though it contains no alcohol. The term “tipsy” here refers to the overwhelming delight and refreshing sensation one feels after enjoying this fruit-filled, shaved ice dessert.
One of Surabaya’s most famous es teler vendors is Es Teler Tanjung Anom, named after the street where it was first founded in 1982. On this visit, however, I bought the dessert at their Taman Apsari branch—just a few steps from the hotel where I stayed during my short trip to the city. Es Teler Tanjung Anom is regarded as one of Surabaya’s legendary culinary verdors, often visited not only by locals but also by public figures. Besides their iconic es teler, the eatery is equally well‑known for its bakso (meatball), making it a perfect stop for both sweet and savory cravings.
After picking up my es teler, I carried it back to my hotel room and enjoyed it in the quiet comfort of my stay. Inside the cup, shaved ice was drenched in syrup and condensed milk, enriched with a splash of santan (coconut milk) that gave a creamy depth. Sweet jackfruit, tender young coconut, and buttery avocado mingled with chewy sagu mutiara (tapioca pearls)—each spoonful a mix of textures and flavors. And yes, in this part of the world, avocado is not a savory topping but a beloved dessert ingredient, lending its richness to drinks and sweets. Together, the fruits, pearls, coconut milk, and sweet syrup created a harmony that felt both refreshing and indulgent, a true taste of Indonesia’s dessert tradition.
Location Jl Taman Apsari No 7, Genteng, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia
Operating Hours
Daily, 11.00 AM to 09.00 PM
Price
Es teler IDR 25,000
Surabaya’s culinary scene is far richer than what I managed to retrace in this short trip. From sambal legends to crispy fried chicken and duck, new kopitiam cafe, and refreshing desserts, each stop was only a glimpse into the city’s rich tapestry of flavors. What I experienced was just a small portion of the beloved food memories I carry from Surabaya, yet it was enough to remind me why this city holds such a special place in my heart. Time may have allowed me to revisit only a handful of legends and favorites, but each bite felt like an invitation to return, to wander further, and to uncover the countless other new tastes and stories waiting to be rediscovered. Surabaya, with its endless culinary treasures, will always call me back for more.
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