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[ID] Jejak Rasa Surabaya, Kuliner yang Tak Lekang Waktu (Bagian 2)

Perjalanan wisata kuliner di Surabaya begitu bervariasi, dari institusi legendaris hingga warung kaki lima yang dicintai banyak orang. Setelah mencicipi sambal pedas dan udang goreng renyah di Depot Bu Rudy, menikmati gurihnya bebek goreng di Bebek Palupi, serta merasakan nasi mawut krengsengan ala Pak Kumis, perjalanan saya berlanjut ke tiga favorit lainnya: ayam goreng kampung khas Ayam Goreng President, suasana nostalgia kopitiam di Kedai Ciamso, dan segarnya Es Teler Tanjung Anom. Masing-masing menghadirkan cita rasa dari jiwa kuliner kota ini yang berbeda-beda, namun bersama-sama mereka menunjukkan bagaimana Surabaya meramu tradisi, kenangan, dan kenyamanan sehari-hari dalam budaya makannya. Ayam goreng yang disajikan dengan sambal pedas, kecap manis, dan nasi hangat adalah hidangan pilihan saya Ayam Goreng President Legenda Ayam Goreng Meski Surabaya dikenal dengan sejumlah rumah makan yang menjual bebek goreng yang ikonik, kota ini juga memiliki sejumlah tempat yang tersohor den...

[EN] Finally Attending Mass at the Cathedral: A Pilgrimage in Surabaya

Arriving in Surabaya on Saturday evening, I knew my Sunday would begin with a visit to church. After checking Google Maps, I found that the closest Catholic church to my hotel, Kampi Hotel Tunjungan (see my previous post for the review), was St. Vincentius a Paulo Church in Sawahan. Yet I chose instead to join the Mass at the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral—the mother church of the Diocese of Surabaya and the seat of its bishop. The Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral was officially declared a heritage building by the Surabaya municipal government in 2013, a tribute to its architectural design and historical value. Still, though the cathedral has graced the city for over a hundred years, it is not Surabaya’s oldest Catholic church. That honor rests with the Church of the Birth of Our Lady in Kepanjen, which predates it by more than thirty years.

The Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral is situated on Jalan Polisi Istimewa, just off Raya Darmo—one of Surabaya’s main boulevards. The cathedral is surrounded by a vibrant Catholic presence. Beside it rises Biara Soverdi Surabaya, the motherhouse of The Societas Verbi Divini (SVD) congregation in Surabaya, together with schools like St. Louis, St. Mary, and St. Catherine, and Widya Mandala Catholic University. Commonly referred to as Gereja Katedral (the Cathedral Church) or Gereja HKY—short for Hati Kudus Yesus, the church’s official name in Bahasa Indonesia—the cathedral was originally established as an extension of the Church of the Birth of Our Lady, which had become overcrowded in the early 1910s. The process of selecting a site for the new chuch took nearly eight years before the final decision was made to build it on Jalan Polisi Istimewa—then known as Anita Boulevard.

Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral stands as the mother church of the Diocese of Surabaya

The cathedral, inaugurated in 1921, began as an extension of the Church of the Birth of Our Lady in Kepanjen

Early ministry was entrusted to the Lazarists of the Congregation of the Mission, founded by St. Vincent de Paul

The laying of the cornerstone of the new church took place on August 11, 1920, led by R.P. Fleerakkers, S.J., and the church was officially inaugurated and blessed on July 21, 1921, by Mgr. Edmundus Luypen, S.J., Apostolic Vicar of Batavia, who gave it the name "Gereja Hati Kudus Yesus Surabaya". At the time, the cathedral was planned to accommodate around 900 parishioners, reflecting the growing Catholic community in Surabaya. The design of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral was prepared by the Ed Cypress Bureau, with a rectangular floor plan, while the basilica-style construction was carried out by the architectural firm Huswit-Fermont. 

Architecturally, the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral reflects a blend of Gothic and Romanesque influences, adapted within the Dutch Colonial style of the early 20th century. Its basilica form, rounded arches, and soaring vertical lines give the building both solidity and grandeur, making it one of Surabaya’s most distinctive heritage landmarks. Over the years, the cathedral underwent renovations—first in 1951 under Mgr. Verhoeks, CM, and again after a grenade attack by a member of the Indonesian Communist Party in 1967. The cathedral continues to evolve through careful upgrades and renovations yet always preserves the heritage that makes it a timeless landmark of faith.

Built in the early 20th century, the Surabaya Cathedral reflects Gothic and Romanesque architectural influences

For its historical significance and captivating architecture, the Cathedral was declared a heritage site in 2013

Although it was not far from my boarding house when I lived in Surabaya, this was my first time attending Mass here

In its early years, the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral was served by Lazarist, or Vincentian (CM) priests, the same congregation that ministered at the Church of the Birth of Our Lady in Kepanjen. The Congregation of the Mission (Congregatio Missionis, CM) was founded in Paris, France, by St. Vincent de Paul in 1625. They laid the groundwork for the Apostolic Prefecture of Surabaya in 1928, which later became a diocese in 1961. Today, the cathedral is under the care of diocesan priests, with the bishop’s seat firmly established here. 

Although I had lived in Surabaya for more than a decade, I had never attended Mass at the cathedral—making this visit all the more meaningful. I often stopped here in the mornings to pray at the Marian Grotto, usually with coworkers before heading to the office, yet my regular Mass was mostly at the Immaculate Saint Mary Church in Ngagel, closer to my boarding house. Looking back now, I wonder why I never sought the cathedral, since it was not too far away.

An Ange Gardien, carved in quiet grace, stands guard over the church’s faithful heart

In 2022, the Marian Grotto found a new home at this more contemporary location

I arrived at the cathedral quite early, as the Mass began at 6 AM. Over time, this has become a habit for me: whenever possible, I choose to attend the earliest morning Mass, usually at 6 or 7. At that hour, the atmosphere feels more solemn, and most of the parishioners are from older generations, creating a quieter setting compared to later Masses filled with families and children. It was the same here, as the cathedral was not too crowded. The Mass began with the Angelus Prayer, a traditional devotion commemorating the Incarnation through the angel Gabriel’s announcement to the Virgin Mary. As the prayer was recited, the church bell rang, its sound resonating powerfully within the sanctuary. In that instant, I felt a glorious chill of awe, as though the solemn rhythm of faith was echoing through both space and soul.

The Marian Grotto, once tucked within the cathedral grounds where I often paused in prayer years ago, was relocated in 2022 to a new, modern site beside the church. Its refreshed setting offers a gentler atmosphere, inviting both older and younger generations to gather in quiet devotion. Returning here now, I was struck by how the grotto’s renewal mirrors my own rediscovery of this place. Having finally attended Mass at the cathedral, I felt a quiet fulfillment—an inner peace that seemed to unlock a new freedom. With that, I could walk through Surabaya more openly, carrying the cathedral’s solemn grace into the rhythm of the city, as if every street and corner had become part of my pilgrimage.



Paroki Hati Kudus Yesus Surabaya
Gereja Katedral Surabaya 

Location Jalan Polisi Istimewa No 17, Surabaya, East Java, Indonesia

Weekly Mass Schedule
Saturday, 06.00 PM
Sunday, 06.00 AM, 08.00 AM, 10.00 AM, 04.30 PM, 6.30 PM





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