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[ID] Som Tam di Tiap Sudut Bangkok, Pengalaman Kuliner yang Segar dan Seru

Makanan Thailand Favorit Saya Beberapa tahun lalu, saya sempat tinggal di Thailand selama beberapa bulan, dan sejak itu saya cukup akrab dengan cita rasa khas masakan Thailand. Meskipun secara umum profil rasanya tidak jauh berbeda dari hidangan Indonesia atau Asia Tenggara lainnya, selalu ada sesuatu yang istimewa saat kembali ke Thailand dan menikmati langsung kekayaan kulinernya.  Di Jakarta sendiri, makanan Thailand cukup mudah ditemukan di mana banyak pusat perbelanjaan besar yang memiliki setidaknya satu restoran Thailand. Sebagian besar restoran ini bahkan dengan bangga menampilkan sertifikasi “Thai Select”, sebuah penanda resmi dari Kementerian Perdagangan Thailand yang menjamin keaslian cita rasa dan pengalaman bersantap, baik di dalam maupun luar negeri.  Namun, makanan bukan hanya soal rasa. Suasana, pemandangan, dan bunyi-bunyian di sekitar juga memberi pengalaman tersendiri saat menyantapnya. Itulah mengapa saya begitu antusias menyambut perjalanan saya ke Bangkok...

[EN] From Midnight Arrival to Morning Walk through Benjakitti Forest Park

After briefly detouring in the past couple of posts to reflect on the patron saints of my initiation names—an exploration inspired by visits to several churches in Singapore—we now continue with the next leg of my journey to Bangkok, Thailand which took place last month. As previously mentioned, this trip followed a long layover in Singapore, which I turned into a short city stopover. Eventually, I boarded a rather late connecting flight from Changi Airport and landed in Bangkok just after midnight local time. Despite the hour, the immigration queue at Suvarnabhumi Airport was still fairly long, unsurprising for a major tourist hub like Thailand. After passing immigration, I took care of a few essentials like purchasing a local SIM card and getting a Rabbit Card, Bangkok’s contactless card for BTS Skytrain travel. By then, it was already too late to catch the Airport Rail Link, which connects the airport to central Bangkok and only resumes operation at 6 AM. I had two options: wait several hours at the airport or head to the hotel using a taxi or ride-hailing service. I chose the latter, thankful that the Grab app I regularly use back home also works in Bangkok. As luck would have it, the expressway toll fee from the airport was waived that night in celebration of Royal Ploughing Day, which had just begun at midnight. Eventually, I arrived at my hotel near the Nana area and checked in at almost 2 a.m. After a quick shower to freshen up, I went straight to rest—another full day awaited me, with the first activity scheduled to begin in just a few hours.

Benjakitti Park was originally opened in 1992 to commemorate Queen Sirikit’s 60th birthday

The large man-made lake offers a scenic loop for jogging and walking

Realizing that my hotel was quite close to Benjakitti Forest Park (สวนเบญจกิติ – Suan Benjakitti in Thai), I decided to head there for a pleasant morning walk. It wasn’t as early as I initially planned, but given how late I had checked in the night before, I couldn’t really complain. This wasn’t my first time visiting the park—I had been here once before during a work assignment that required me to stay in Bangkok for several months. Still, it was clear that the park had seen notable improvements since my last visit. Located in the Khlong Toei area at the heart of the city, the park sits next to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (QSNCC)—Thailand’s first international convention venue, regularly hosting both domestic and global MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, Exhibitions) events. Benjakitti Park is conveniently accessible, situated near Queen Sirikit National Convention Center MRT Station, and within walking distance from Asok BTS Station. The park is also connected to Lumpini Park, another well-known green space in the city, by the Green Mile—an elevated pedestrian walkway. I used to frequent Lumpini Park almost every weekend back when I lived in the Sathorn-Silom area. Unfortunately, on this visit, the 1.3 km connecting bridge was temporarily closed due to maintenance work on the canal and fencing. Nevertheless, exploring Benjakitti Park itself proved to be a rewarding experience. 

One of the elevated skywalks within Benjakitti Forest Park, offering views of wetlands and tree canopies

Part of the park’s sustainable design, the skywalk allows for immersive views of the urban forest

The newly expanded Benjakitti Forest Park offers much more than before—with expansive green spaces, lotus ponds, elevated walkways, and a calming natural atmosphere that serves as a refreshing retreat from Bangkok’s urban chaos. You might still find the name spelled as "Benchakitti Park" in some older or informal sources due to variations in the transliteration of Thai script. However, the official spelling used by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) and most Thai government sources is Benjakitti Park. The name “Benjakitti” is derived from the Thai words เบญจ (benja, meaning five) and กิติ (kitti, meaning honor or glory), signifying “fivefold honor”. It was given in 1992 to commemorate Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother’s fifth 12-year birthday cycle (60th birthday), an important milestone in Thai culture. Today, this award-winning park is often referred to as the city’s green lung, but the land it occupies—about 450 rai (approximately 72 hectares or 178 acres)—has a somewhat ironic past. It was once the site of a sprawling state-run cigarette factory operated by the Thailand Tobacco Monopoly (TTM), now known as the Tobacco Authority of Thailand (TOAT). The transformation of this former industrial site into an urban forest stands as a remarkable example of ecological restoration and urban revitalization.

Once part of a tobacco factory, this revitalized space now houses indoor sports facilities open to the public

The park bursts with native trees and wild flora, creating a green lung in the heart of the capital

The story of Benjakitti Park began in 1991, when the Thailand Tobacco Monopoly (TTM) decided to relocate its factory operations to an industrial zone north of Bangkok. The move came as the Khlong Toei district, once an industrial area, was rapidly transforming into a dense urban environment with the rise of apartment buildings, shopping malls, and hotels. As a pilot project for urban green space, a portion of the former tobacco factory land was converted into a public park in 1992. This initial phase featured a large man-made lake measuring approximately 800 by 200 meters, which quickly became a popular spot for city dwellers to jog and walk along the surrounding track. Further development came in 2016, when the Royal Thai Army designed and constructed a more traditional park extension with orderly geometric layouts. However, a more transformative vision emerged in 2019, when the Thai government launched a major expansion to turn the remaining area into a true forest park. A national design competition was held, and the winning proposal came from Arsomsilp Community and Environmental Architect in collaboration with Beijing-based landscape design firm Turenscape, led by Kongjian Yu. Working under tight budget and time constraints, the design was based on the innovative "Sponge City" concept. Instead of relying solely on conventional drainage systems, the plan emphasized ecological water management through natural means. This included the integration of wetland ecosystems, bioswales, and permeable surfaces to absorb and slow down runoff, thus helping with flood prevention and groundwater replenishment.

The shaded playground offers fun and creative spaces for kids to explore the nature-inspired play zones

A commemorative monument at the original section of Benjakitti Park, echoing the park’s royal legacy

The newly expanded Benjakitti Forest Park now offers a wide range of facilities and features: elevated skywalks winding through lush wetlands, birdwatching towers, lotus ponds, outdoor amphitheaters, a museum plaza, nurseries, rest areas, and dedicated jogging and cycling lanes. A notable highlight is how some of the old tobacco factory buildings have been creatively repurposed into public-use facilities. For example, several brick warehouse structures are now part of the Benjakitti Sports Center, housing courts for badminton, pickleball, sepak takraw, and more—blending industrial heritage with community recreation. The park’s redevelopment culminated in its official opening in August 2022, led by Prime Minister Prayut Chan-o-cha, and it has since been praised as a national model for sustainable urban development. With its rich biodiversity, eco-conscious design, and expansive green space, Benjakitti Forest Park has become a celebrated symbol of Bangkok’s environmental renewal and a much-needed green lung for the capital’s future. Its innovative transformation has also garnered numerous international awards, including the 2023 World Landscape Architecture Award of Excellence, recognizing its visionary approach in turning a former industrial brownfield into an urban ecological haven.

As the morning went on and the sun climbed higher, the temperature quickly soared to 35°C, reminding me just how intense Bangkok’s heat can be. I only managed to explore a small portion of Benjakitti Forest Park this time, as I had to move on to my next destination on the day’s itinerary. Still, the short visit was more than worth it—this park has long been my favorite green space in the city, and it never fails to offer a peaceful escape amid the urban sprawl. Hopefully, next time I’ll have more time to wander through its many paths and hidden corners, especially now that it has transformed into one of the most remarkable green lungs of Bangkok.



Benjakitti Forest Park
สวนเบญจกิติ

Location Khlong Toei (between Rama IV Road and Sukhumvit Road), Bangkok, Thailand

Opening Hours
Daily, 05.00 AM to 09.00 PM

Admission Fee
Free entry

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