As people say, there's a first time for everything. So there I was on a Sunday morning, about to attend my first Mass in English. It felt extra special to be doing it during a short trip to Thailand—and in such a remarkable place as the Assumption Cathedral in Bangkok. While it is not the oldest church in Thailand (that title belongs to the Immaculate Conception Church, or Wat Kamen, built nearly a century and a half earlier in Bangkok), and not the largest (the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Chanthaburi currently holds that distinction), Assumption Cathedral remains the main Catholic church in the kingdom, serving as the principal church of the Archdiocese of Bangkok. The Assumption Cathedral is situated in the historic Bang Rak District of Bangkok, on the eastern bank of the renowned Chao Phraya River. This riverside area has long been inhabited—its roots trace back to the Ayutthaya Kingdom, well before Bangkok was established as the capital. During the 19th century, Bang Rak grew rapidly with the arrival of foreign consulates, traders, and missionaries, evolving into one of Bangkok’s earliest international and commercial hubs. Today, it remains a vibrant business and residential district, home to towering offices, upscale condominiums, and luxury hotels—including the iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel, located just about 100 meters from the Cathedral.
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| At first glance, the cathedral looks like the Notre-Dame in Paris due to its French Gothic Romanesque architecture |
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| A breathtaking view of the cathedral’s nave, beneath a fully adorned ceiling soaring 26 meters high |
I arrived at the Assumption Cathedral after a 15-minute walk from the Saphan Taksin BTS Station. Since the earlier Thai-language Mass was still ongoing, I took the opportunity to explore the church grounds and admire the grandeur of the cathedral towering exterior. The red-brick façade brought back memories of my old Catholic school days, creating a warm sense of familiarity. Just like in many churches I’ve visited back home in Indonesia—where it’s common to find at least one Catholic school located near a church or even within the same complex—the cathedral here is also surrounded by several historic Catholic educational institutions. Behind the cathedral stands Assumption College, a boys' school established in 1887 by the Mission of Siam. In front lies Assumption Convent School, a girls’ school founded in 1904 and now operated by the Sisters of St. Paul of Chartres. This close connection between faith and learning reflects the Catholic Church’s long-standing commitment to education as a vital part of spiritual and personal development. At the entrance of the cathedral, two significant statues greet visitors—St. Peter, the first pope, and Pope John Paul II, one of the longest-serving popes in history. Remarkably, Pope John Paul II visited this very cathedral during his historic 1984 trip to Thailand, marking the country’s first papal visit. The only other pope to have visited Thailand is Pope Francis, who came in 2019 and both visits reflecting the growing presence of Catholic faith in this predominantly Buddhist nation and the broader Southeast Asian region.
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| The depiction of the Virgin Mary's Assumption above the altar is a focal point of this historic church |
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| Stained-glass windows around the cathedral narrate key moments from Creation to the life of Christ |
The story of Assumption Cathedral traces back to 1809, when Father Pascal, a French missionary, began gathering donations to build a church in honor of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. With these initial contributions, Bishop Esprit-Marie-Joseph Florens—an instrumental figure in the early Catholic mission in Siam—purchased a plot of land along the Chao Phraya River. Construction began soon after, supported by additional funding from generous benefactors in Rome. By 1820, the land was expanded to accommodate more facilities, and the modest brick church was completed in 1821. It was formally consecrated the following year, in 1822, during the reign of King Rama II. The church became both the spiritual home for Catholics in the region and the official residence of the bishop. As the surrounding area began to develop, a vibrant Catholic community emerged and seminaries, schools, and residential buildings grew around the church grounds. However, as the Catholic population steadily increased, the original church could no longer accommodate the faithful. In response, Fr. Colombet, then parish priest, partnered with Fr. Romieux, a seasoned builder and the mission’s treasurer, to plan a new, larger cathedral. Despite logistical challenges—some materials were imported from Europe while others were sourced from provinces like Ratchaburi—construction began in 1909. The majestic new cathedral was completed in 1918 and consecrated on August 15, 1919, fittingly on the Feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, by Bishop René-Marie-Joseph Perros, Vicar Apostolic of Eastern Siam. Since then, the cathedral has served as a central place of worship and a spiritual landmark for Catholics in Bangkok, hosting many significant events throughout its history.
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| The cathedral’s elevated wooden pulpit stands as an heirloom of traditional preaching |
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| The red-brick façade echoes timeless elegance and evoke memories of my old Catholic school days |
During World War II, the area surrounding Assumption Cathedral was heavily bombed by Allied forces in 1942, causing significant damage to the building itself. The church underwent extensive restoration soon after the war, with additional refurbishments carried out in the 1980s and 1990s. Built along the traditional east-west axis, the church’s symmetrical layout, with twin bell towers and rounded archways, immediately reminded me of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. I later learned that the design does carry a strong French Gothic Romanesque influence and was even partly inspired by the famous Mosque–Cathedral of Córdoba in Spain. Stepping into the main entrance (well, before the Mass started), I was immediately amazed with the grandeur within as the nave’s soaring ceiling (rising nearly 26 meters) bears the Latin monogram of Jesus’ name and is adorned with golden stars set against a dark blue backdrop, creating a serene, night-sky effect. Inside, the dome and walls are beautifully decorated with fresco paintings depicting stories from the life of Jesus and the Virgin Mary. The cathedral's enduring significance is further highlighted by its aforementioned role as the host venue for Thailand’s two papal visits—first by Pope John Paul II in May 1984 and later by Pope Francis in November 2019. Beyond these historic visits, Assumption Cathedral has been graced by royal presence, including King Ananda Mahidol alongside then-Prince Bhumibol in May 1946, Princess Soamsawali and Princess Bajirakitiyabha in 1995, and then-Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn in 2002. These events reflect the cathedral's legacy as a living symbol of Thailand’s enduring Catholic presence, embraced by both the kingdom and society.
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This statue of Pope John Paul II stands as a tribute to his global influence and historic visit to Thailand |
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| Founded in 1904, the Assumption Convent School is run by the Sisters of St. Paul of Chartres |
Although I’ve practically memorized most of the responses for the Eucharistic celebration in Bahasa Indonesia, I’m still unfamiliar with the exact phrasing used in English—aside from the more common or simpler parts. Thankfully, printed leaflets containing the Order of Mass were provided, which was a relief since I’ve always felt it’s not quite appropriate to scroll through my phone during Mass. However, it turned out that several portions of the Eucharistic Prayer weren’t included in the leaflet, so I ended up responding in Bahasa as my reflex kicked in. Still, attending my very first English-language Mass—and my very first Mass outside of Indonesia—was an incredibly meaningful experience. Despite the language difference and my unfamiliarity with some of the liturgical phrasing, I was struck by the comforting rhythm and structure of the celebration, which felt both new and familiar at the same time. It reminded me of the beauty of the Catholic faith—that no matter where in the world you are, the essence of the Eucharist unites us all as one universal Church.
With my heart full and my spirit uplifted, I stepped back out into the warm Bangkok morning. As it was the weekend, I decided to continue my exploration of the city by hopping on the nearby BTS Skytrain and heading straight to Chatuchak Weekend Market—ready to dive into another colorful chapter of my Bangkok journey.
Assumption Cathedral Bangkok
อาสนวิหารอัสสัมชัญ
Location 23 Oriental Avenue (Soi Charoenkrung 40), Bang Rak, Bangkok, Thailand
Weekly Mass Schedule
Saturday, 05.00 PM
Sunday, 07.00 AM, 08.30 AM, 10.00 AM (English), 05.00 PM
* Mass is in Thai unless otherwise stated
(specifically related to the Sunday 10 AM English Mass)
(main website)
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