Having lived in Thailand for several months a few years ago, I grew quite familiar with the flavors of Thai cuisine. While the overall taste profile may not be drastically different from Indonesian or other Southeast Asian dishes, there’s always something special about returning to Thailand to enjoy its culinary treasures firsthand. In Jakarta, Thai food is fairly accessible with many large shopping malls have at least one Thai restaurant, and most proudly display the “Thai Select” certification. This mark, issued by the Ministry of Commerce of the Royal Thai Government, guarantees an authentic Thai dining experience both at home and abroad. Still, food is more than just flavor—it’s also about the atmosphere, the sights and sounds that accompany the meal. That’s why I was especially excited for my recent trip to Bangkok. One dish I couldn’t wait to have again was the spicy green papaya salad, known as Som Tam—one of my all-time favorites.
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| A refreshing bite of Som Tam can be found in many Thai food restaurants around Greater Jakarta area |
I’ve never really been a fan of vegetable-based dishes, so it might come as a surprise—even to myself—that if I had to choose my favorite Thai food, I’d pick Som Tam over more famous options like Tom Yam Goong, Pad Thai, Khao Soi, or Tom Kha Gai. Som Tam, or green papaya salad, is exactly what the name suggests: a spicy and tangy salad made from shredded unripe papaya. Despite its simplicity, it packs a punch of flavor that keeps me coming back for more. Despite its popularity, the dish doesn’t actually originate in Thailand—it comes from neighboring Laos. Known locally as Tam Mak Hoong (which literally means ‘pounded papaya’), green papaya salad combines the bold local flavors of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet. It was introduced to Thailand through the Isan region in northeastern Thailand, which shares deep ethnic and cultural ties with Laos. In Thailand, the dish is called Som Tam—with som meaning 'sour' and tam meaning 'pounded'—highlighting both its distinctive taste and traditional preparation method.
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| Crispy Polo fried chicken meets zesty Som Tam — a match made in Bangkok! |
Polo Fried Chicken
ไก่ทอดเจ๊กี (โปโล)
The first Som Tam I had during this trip to Bangkok was at Polo Fried Chicken, located in Soi Polo near Lumpini Park in the heart of the city. This modest, no-frills restaurant has earned a Bib Gourmand distinction from the Michelin Guide since around 2018, thanks to its signature crispy southern-style fried chicken generously topped with golden fried garlic, as well as its affordable and flavorful Isan dishes — including their Som Tam. When I visited for lunch, the roadside place was packed, and interestingly, many of the customers were fellow Indonesians. The fried chicken lived up to its reputation — crispy, aromatic, and delicious — rightly considered by many as the best in town. The Som Tam, with its fresh and punchy flavors, made a perfect companion, especially refreshing on that scorching hot afternoon.
Location 137/1-3 Sanam Khli Alley, Lumphini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok, Thailand
Operating Hours
Daily, 07.00 AM to 10.00 PM
Price
Fried chicken (half) 130 Baht
Papaya salad with salted crab 70 Baht
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| Som Tam done right at Saman Islam for those looking for halal food options in Chatuchak |
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| Tender beef stew over fragrant biryani rice can also accompany the papaya salad |
Saman Islam
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Another time I had Som Tam was during lunch at Chatuchak Weekend Market which is known as the world’s largest weekend market. After wandering through the sprawling maze of over 15,000 stalls in search of clothes and souvenirs, I ended up at a popular halal food stall called Saman Islam, known for its wide variety of halal Thai and Middle Eastern dishes. There, I enjoyed a flavorful plate of biryani rice with beef — the rice was fragrant, and the beef stew was incredibly tender. To complete the meal, I also ordered Som Tam with cashew nuts, which was fresh and vibrant, along with a large glass of iced Thai tea to beat the heat. Thai tea has always been my favorite drink, and it never fails to refresh me during a hot day or warm me up during a cold night.
Location Section 16, Soi 24, Chatuchak Weekend Market, 251 Phahonyothin Rd, Chom Phon, Chatuchak, Bangkok, Thailand
Operating Hours
Saturday & Sunday, 09.00 AM to 06.00 PM
Price
Biryani rice with beef 150 Baht
Papaya salad with cashew nuts 120 Baht
Iced Thai tea 40 Baht
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| Som Tam on the side as the perfect complement to a sunset dinner on the Chao Phraya. |
I also had a portion of Som Tam during the buffet dinner on a sunset cruise along the Chao Phraya River on my last night in Bangkok, a lovely and flavorful way to end this trip. Som Tam truly complements a wide range of dishes, whether paired with fried chicken, beef, seafood biryani, or enjoyed on its own, its bold and refreshing taste always stands out. As a final treat, I’m sharing a simple recipe for this iconic Thai salad — excerpted from the Thai Select website — so you can try making it at home too.Papaya Salad Ingredients
2 small hot chilies
3 garlic small cloves
1 tablespoon dried shrimp
1 tablespoon roasted peanut
¼ cup string bean (chopped)
100 grams green papaya (shredded)
20 grams carrot (shredded)
2 cherry tomato
Seasoning Mixture Ingredients
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoon palm sugar
1 teaspoon tamarind sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
Instructions
- Pound garlic, small hot chilies, and dried shrimp roughly.
- Add roasted peanuts, string bean and gently crush.
- Add seasoning mixture ingredients and green papaya, carrot, and cherry tomatoes. Mix well.
- Put in the serving plate.
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